I got the FiTech on and sort of running. Mostly it was an exercise in frustration. I didn't have a return port plug in my kit so I went to a local auto parts store and bought a -6 AN plug to cap off the return port. Not the most elegant solution, but it allowed me to keep moving forward.
I got the system installed and wired correctly. The truck would fire right up and idle for about 5 seconds before dying. I don't think I took any pictures of the fully wired system with the fuel lines running to it so this is the best pic I have.
After a chat with FiTech support, they thought my blue wire to the negative side of the coil was getting interference. They asked me to put some aluminum foil between the blue wire and the FiTech throttle body. Once I did that the truck would idle for more than 5 seconds.
Next up was trying to get the IAC steps reading down to the 3-10 range. I spent way too much time trying to get the truck to idle for more than about 60 seconds, so I could get the truck up to operating temperature to tune the IAC steps. Sadly, my handheld controller fell when I hopped out of the truck at one point and cracked the screen. It no longer allowed me to make any adjustments to my settings.
So now I had a cracked handheld controller, a goofy looking return port plug and no way to fine tune my FiTech unit.
The next morning I drove down to FiTech's headquarters and was given a return port plug, inlet port plug and handheld controller.
After getting home, I wiped the configs to the out of the box tune and started all over. I replaced the distributor to throttle body vacuum line and made sure all the other vacuum ports had new rubber caps. After another chat with FiTech support and a few idle screw adjustments to the point where I was "idling" at ~3,000 RPM they concluded that I have a vacuum leak that is causing the engine to stall out and die with the FiTech EFI on it.
My best guess is that it is because I do not have a PCV hooked up from the rear passenger side valve cover to rear of the throttle body, or a breather cap on the drivers side valve cover.
I pulled the Fitech throttle body off and reinstalled the carburetor while I iron out the vacuum leak. I can hear the vacuum leak with the carburetor on it when I let off the accelerator after hard acceleration. I have a Motorcraft PCV valve on order that should arrive later this week.
When putting the carburetor back on I did take the time, with the help of my youngest daughter, to really get the throttle linkage adjusted so that the butterflies in the carb could open to WOT. The overall throttle response and power level are definitely better.